March ‘96

*Additional notes may appear in italics after my mom’s initial journal entries.
A ladybug means you should check the comments at the bottom of the page to see what Mom has chimed in on after reading these!

March 1, Friday

Well the Bandaras Bay winds sure blew today, it was toot’en up to 25 knots with whitecaps roll’en in and tossing the dink about, tied next to the boat.
Nanamuk came in to La Cruz from Marina Vallarta this afternoon. It never calmed down until around 5 pm. We went into Cruise Quarters for a “rib fix”, they have the best ribs I’ve ever eaten! After dinner, Rosa and Nancy brought me an ice cream cake – chocolate. I broke down and had a very small slice, it’s been about 5 years since I’ve had any chocolate and it sure was good.
While we were gone, the phone had rang 3 times.

*I’m nearly certain the reason Mom hadn’t had chocolate in so long was because it gave her migraines. 🐞

 

March 2nd, Saturday

Happy 41st to me!

This morning on the “Weather or Not” net, we found 3 other cruisers birthday’s are today also – Sally on Louana, Joe on Sea Hope and someone else we didn’t know.
John had bought me a dress in Zihuatanejo that I really like and Samie made me a sailboat and poster.
I declared today a “holiday” – no school! We took a taxi into the marina and visited with Renegade (Janice made me a special card), had lunch at Angela’s restaurant and came on back to the boat.
We had 10 phone calls while we were out. Why does it always ring when we’re gone? We hung around for a couple of hours waiting for them to call back – but no, they wait ‘till we leave again!
The crew of Nanamuk had us over and cooked spaghetti for my birthday dinner, it was wonderful and they gave us the tape they have been filming of our boat. It’s a great tape and maybe we can get some more on it if we don’t get separated for too long. We are filming one of them, also. It looked like we may be splitting up for good – they need to move on up to the Sea of Cortez faster than we were planning, but after talking to Goon tonight (who called to say Happy B-day) the girls may not be flying into Mazatlan after all. She said flights are $300 U.S. that week, probably because it’s spring break and they know people will pay it. So hopefully we won’t have to part company so soon.
It's going to be sad and lonely when so many of the boats we have been with for 2 seasons now start leaving for different places now. We had made some very special friendships here in the Mexican waters, some we may never see again.
Ok, I also got a book from Mom called The Christmas Box. Inside she had attached color photo-copies of pictures of us kids when we were all little. One is of me (4 years), Angie (3 years) and Sandie (6 months), all dressed in sailor dress. Jo at 17 months and Andy at 2 years.

*Janice has always made the sweetest and most creative cards for holidays and birthdays. She attaches a beautiful photo on the front and frames it with decorative puff paint and glitter. I always enjoyed seeing her creations being revealed from inside their envelopes, filled with small confetti and lots of love.
I went back and added the videos Nanamuk took of us to January and February, so be sure to go back for those if you were already caught up to this point. I also went one step further and combined our two videos of the trip to Buffadero Bluff when we caught and released a sailfish (Jan 22nd) - you can find that one here.
I also have to poke a little fun here - occasionally when in the States, I’d hear about some “HUGE” fish a friend caught and have to stifle a chuckle at their 6” lake fish catch, after seeing my parents tackle monsters like these a few times over!

 

March 3, Sunday

After school and before the wind came up, the kids all went for a swim between the boats. There’s a new boat here, Lasqueti, they have two families on board – 4 adults and 7 kids. They have kayaks and Samie and Jelly had their first try at kayaking; they did great at staying up right, but didn’t make much forward progress. They also had a try at roller skating on shore. So today was a day for new adventures.
Later, Rob and Grace came over for awhile to say goodbye, at least for now. They are leaving for Mazatlan in the morning.
Goon called sad ‘cuz she won’t be able to fly out. Ok, Mom and Daddy called this morning – they got the story I wrote, Imagine, and they really enjoyed it. I heard a couple of whales breathing and “singing” here in the anchorage tonight.

*Lots of video was taken on this day! Mom was adding to our own tape as well as the one we were making for Nanamuk. It’s so crazy to think of how much more time and effort it took to share your experiences with others back then - before digital media, social platforms and easy access to the internet.
About the boat,
Lasqueti - I don’t think we ever saw them again beyond this anchorage, but I wonder how long they’d been cruising with two families; what an interesting challenge that must have been in such a small space.

 

March 4, Monday

We took Jelly’s birthday gifts over to her this morning before they left. Her B-day isn’t until the 31st, but we may not be together then.
John dove on the boat this morning.
John went ashore and picked up Rosa and Jena from Cruise Quarters so they could come out and see the boat.
Tonight, as the sun set and colored the western sky in shades of warm pinks, the moon was also rising to the east. As its fullness rose and was partly hidden behind clouds, casting a brilliant spotlight down upon the water.
La Cruz has always been one of the prettiest places for the spectacular shows of so many different beauties that nature has to offer.

 

March 5, Tuesday

We headed into P.V. Marina via bus this morning to check the mail, we still have 2 letters coming, but no luck.
Renegade was all but ready to cast off their dock lines to begin their trip to La Cruz and on to Hawaii. By the time we picked up some meat for the freezer and waited the half hour or more for the bus – they arrived in La Cruz just 15 minutes after we did.
After Happy Hour on Renegade, we all went into Cruise Quarters for a farewell dinner of ribs. Once our bellies were stuffed, we walked to the far end of town to listen to some of the local cruisers play music at a club called “Club Rocks”. A really neat rock building built up on a ledge, the dining area has rock seats with cushions, and a wall-fall (not working). Anyway, it was cool! From the balcony, you overlooked the anchorage, and tonight the full moon reflected down on the silky ocean.
It was a great time, but still a little sadness was felt all around at this, our last night together for who knows how long.
Oh, while I was writing to Shine and Samie was painting him a picture – he called! He says he’s doing ok and he sounded good, glad to be off the mountain.

*Our friends Sue and Pepe were two of the cruisers we went to hear sing - it was always a pleasure listening to them play in different ports at local bars/restaurants.

 

March 6, Wednesday

Happy Birthday Cardon, #1

John dove on the boat to finish the bottom, Samie swam over to Renegade, then John and I dinghied over to say goodbye and wish them well. Samie and I did our best to get them to change their minds  and stay in Mexico – no luck!
So, at noon, as the winds picked up, Arne, Janice and their crew member, Frank, brought in the anchor for the last time for the next 25 to 30 days. Smiling through the tears threatening to fall, we wave farewell to our friends, since July ’94 in Marina Cortez, San Diego. As they motor by on our port side, we can hear the music of bagpipes floating our way as they float away.
We went into Cruise Quarters to try and cheer ourselves up, but as the day wore on and night fell, we were all depressed, I guess the loneliness had set in and Samie and I had a good cry.
It was a sad day in paradise.

*The hardest part of cruising is saying goodbye to the people you’ve grown so close to. You’re hardly ever “stuck” with anyone while cruising and you don’t often suffer your neighbors so much as you choose them. They become the family you choose and cruise with, sharing adventures and exploring together. But eventually, we all have our own separate trails to blaze and dreams to follow beyond the horizon line. We kept in touch with Arne and Janice and are still in touch via social media. We did visit them seven years later in San Francisco back in 2003 while we were on a long road trip in my parent’s R.V. to the PNW and back down the coastline. We also saw Nanamuk on that trip - it was such a great time!

 

March 7, Thursday

We left La Cruz at 7 am and headed for Chacala. Just after rounding Punta de Mita, we made contact with Arne on SSB at 9:30 on 8.104 – they were at 20-14N/107 -34W, had 10-15 knots NW and 4-6 foot seas out of the NW. They estimate that at noon today they will have made 150 miles.
Our sail today was full of adventure. To begin with, once we rounded Punta de Mita, we had 8 to 12 knots all day at a pleasant 30-40° off our port, which made for a nice 6 knot speed as we motor-sailed along. John brought in a 25 or 30 lb carvel jack that fought like crazy. We let him go, as they are red meat and not very tasty.
Just off of Jaltemba, 2 jet skis came along side of us – a mile off shore – to say hi and give us a “thumbs up”. Of all things – I’ve never seen jet skiers so far off shore!
We saw a few whales in the distance. A sailfish was jumping to the side of us and John took the boat towards him, hoping to hook him on the lines. As we were looking behind to see if he took the lure, a HUGE manta ray flew maybe 20 feet from the water just a hundred feet behind us. He was at least as wide as our boat, which is 13’2”. Oh, he was so beautiful and graceful flying up and forward, his black back, and white belly caught for a few seconds in the reflection of the bright sun. On his 3rd and final jump, he was close enough that it seemed he was smiling. Once he disappeared, I think he was swimming under for 5 minutes or so, because our depth went down to 20 feet. I wish at times like that we had a glass-bottom boat.
We were anchored in Chacala at 3:15 pm. Samie went for a row in the dink around the boat, I soon joined her. We had drinks on Palio, who is anchored bow and stern behind us. We have heard Roxanne on the ham (XCA), but never met her and her hubby, Don before. As the night set in, we rolled in the swell and wished we had a stern anchor.
Rob and Grace are in Mazatlan at least until Monday.

 

March 8, Friday

The morning was cool, but the day warmed up nicely. John polished the brass dodger window push-out arms – whatever they’re called. He got all the green salt tarnish off – they shine beautifully now. Rob would just shake his head!
John and Samie went to the beach – I took a nap! Haven’t talked to Steve for a while.

 

March 9, Saturday

Happy B-day Vickie

We left Chacala this morning at 7 am, headed for San Blas; Palio is also traveling with us. We saw a  mother and baby humpback playing in between our boats. Other than that, it was just a nice motor, there was about 5-10 knots, but on our nose. We didn’t go into the estuary, but anchored out in Matanchen Bay at 11:15 am.
The rest of the day was a lazy one, although John did dive down and clean the propeller while Samie swam alongside. Talked to Steve on the ham, he has been sick with brochitis, which Brenda had a couple weeks ago.
We have up all our “San Blas netting”, but the little buggers are still sneaking in!

 

March 10, Sunday

George Burns died.

Ourselves and Palio took the bus into San Blas, visited with Norm and Jan, ate at McDonald’s and looked around the square before taking a taxi back to the beach.
We did talk to Steve tonight.

 

March 11, Monday

Happy B-day Cammie

We left Matanchen Bay, San Blas at 8:30 am for Mazatlan. The day began with light winds on our nose which built to 10-18 knots, laying down to 5 knots around 10 pm. The seas had been lumpy and we were taking some spray, but nothing bad.  John brought in two 30lb caravelle jacks, but released them, actually, one got wrapped on the wind vane and broke the line.
Out here in the “triangle” we could hear boats in P.V., Mazatlan, Cabo and halfway between Mazatlan and La Paz all on the VHF.
The night was smooth and peaceful, no shrimp boats to dodge.

 

March 12, Tuesday

At around 8:30 am, 6 miles out of Mazatlan, the fog started to settle in all around us until we were socked in! Palio made it in the anchorage, unfortunately we weren’t fast enough. Just as a break came and we thought we’d make a dash, we could hear a fog horn, somewhere out there the ferry boat was headed in.
Memories of San Diego 4 years ago, when we nearly got ran down in a similar fog came flooding back – at least we have radar this time!! But even so, it’s a pretty eerie feeling. So, for the next 2.5 hours, we were spinning circles a quarter mile from the point and half a mile from the rock, between which we must pass to the entrance.
I got good video if the lighthouse peaking through on top of the fog before it would disappear again.
Out of the dog, not 20 feet beside us was a panga, sitting, waiting also – so we made circles around the 3 young Mexicans who would keep pointing to the entrance and we kept circling, waiting until we could see!
Finally, at 11:30 am, it cleared off completely and we headed in. The “3 amigos” in the panga were pointing, we were headed that direction (already knowing the way), so I wave for them to come too, I thought they were also waiting for the fog to lift. They got as far as the entrance in the breakwater and turned to go back out. They thought we needed help getting in! It was so funny, they were so nice and cute while they danced in the panga, waiting.
Nanamuk is still here and we anchored next to the. Samie played over there while John and I took a nap.
Palio, Don and Roxanne came over for Happy Hour – Rob, Grace and kids came over for dinner.
Nanamuk’s plans are to stay here and haul out on the 25th.

Fog outside of Mazatlan! It was terrifying to hear fog horns nearby and not see anything!

 

March 13, Wednesday

Well Arne and Janice have been underway to Hawaii for one week now. We talked to them this morning on the SSB 8.104 just like they were next door. They were at 20° -07 N / 112° - 56 W and had 15-18 knots NNE, 4-6 foot seas, 68°, all wearing jackets, 75% cloud cover. They are making about 150 miles + per day and are about 900 miles offshore.
Nanamuk found out they may have to wait longer than they want to be able to haul out here in Mazatlan – so we had another farewell happy hour tonight.
We called Chelle, she just had a tooth pulled, but otherwise all is well with them. Schyler is walking some now. They won’t be able to fly out and Danielle still doesn’t know.

 

March 14, Thursday

Nanamuk pulled anchor and left this morning at 6:30.
Arne could not hear us this a.m. on SSB, but we got their lat and long, all is well out in the Pacific.
Danielle called, she won’t know until Friday the 21st if she’ll have enough money to come or not – so we’ll just wait here. Goon called, it was snowing at 8:00 this a.m.
Samie did lesson 100 and passed! We only have 60 more lessons to go!
A boat called Hot Toddy came in today, they have a 12-year-old girl, Sonya and she came over for the afternoon. The girls hit it off wonderfully, even with the age difference.
We have been listening to the wind howl outside, it’s getting up to 18 knots here in the anchorage and we are behind a small mountain. I hope Nanamuk and Nipinka are not getting much more than that and that the seas don’t build too much. I remember last year and it scares me.

 

March 15, Friday

Nanamuk only had 10 knots all  night, but the swell and wind chop were making it rough. Tonight, on happy hour, they were 55 miles SE of Muertos with 12-15 k NW, hoping they could make forward progress. We had 10 k NW all day and now at 9:00 pm it’s been blowing 20 knots for an hour or more. And it’s cold, we all have sweat pants on!
Arne and Janice are almost half way to Hawaii.
This afternoon John, Samie and I boarded the Captain’s shore boat and went out to the USS Fletcher 992, which is anchored a mile or so outside the breakwater. John had asked permission a couple days ago and we were invited on. Once boarding this monster of a ship, we were shown all the outside decks, the galley, mess hall, and various different areas. As we walked past the doctor’s, barber shop, post office, ugly tellers and candy machines, Samie said “This is just like a little city!!” The sailor showing us around was Brian S. of Pennsylvania and has been on the USS Fletcher for 4 years. He was a “radar man”, so we got to see the radar room. Lots of different radar on this ship. We also went in the control room where she is driven from.
Slightly bigger and more to it than our cockpit! We got to see the course they had plotted when they came in to anchor. They are based in Hawaii – it took them 5 days to get here and will go on up to San Diego.
They carry 350-some crew and 20 officers on board.
Our tour lasted about 45 minutes, I guess. It was really interesting!! The Fletcher is a Destroyer.

*When the USS Fletcher was built in 1980, it was the 30th Spruance class destroyer built. It was the 15th destroyer to join the Pacific Fleet. It had been all over the world in its 16 years up to that point, spending as many as 101 days at sea. After their departure from Mazatlan on the 17th, the crew actually rescued an injured crew member aboard a vessel in distress! As quoted in this article about the ship’s history:
“While en route from Mazatlán, Mexico, to San Diego,
Fletcher received message traffic on a bridge-to-bridge radio from the fishing vessel JoAnn. Reporting a casualty to her main engine, JoAnn also claimed to have been adrift for ten days, low on food, water, and fuel. In addition, she had an injured crewmember on board needing emergency evacuation and medical attention. After a brief search, Fletcher located and closed the stricken vessel, transferring a team via motor whaleboat to assess the engineering casualty and to render first aid. The injured crewmember, suffering from cellulitis and in the first stages of gangrene, was in danger of losing both feet through amputation if he did not receive medical attention in 3–5 days. The destroyer transported the injured crewmember back to San Diego, after providing JoAnn food, water, and an emergency pump. Fletcher later received the Humanitarian Service Medal for the rescue.”
How wild is that?! I wonder whatever happened to the crewmembers and the boat. I hope everyone was ok, considering.

 

March 16, Saturday

John fueled up yesterday and did this and that today. The fuel pump was leaking, so he changed the ring.
Renegade is almost half way to Hawaii, they should pass the halfway point today.
Samie called to tell Sam about the Navy ship – he wasn’t home, but called back.
There was a Mexican wedding over on shore that played music – loud music – from noon or so until 8 pm. Even played a few American oldies – “1 o’clock, 2 o’clock, 3 o’clock rock!” – Wake Up Little Suzie and Jail House Rock!!
It has been so cold here, that the hatches remain closed most all day and the nights and mornings call for sweats. Some mornings are 60°- 62° and days only 75° - winter – let’s go south!

 *My dad, Sam, was in the Navy when he was younger, so I was excited to share my experience with him!

March 17, Sunday

St. Patty’s Day!

Mike from Irish Mist came over and adjusted the valves on the main engine and gen set. ($30)
John bought lobster from one of the fishing boats.
We went into town, Samie bought some little Barbie hats, flowers and lace and a meter of fabric so she can be creative. Once we were through with that, the main market was shut down. So we headed home.
Talked to Renegade, they did cross the halfway point yesterday. Last night they had 25 – 45 knots of wind, and thus, not a pleasant ride. Today it was still blowing 25, but had smoothed out some. Also, Ken from True Blue came up on frequency, he is on the merchant ship Matzoania, which was just pulling in to L.A. for the next 3 days. He still has 3 more trips to Hawaii and back before he can return to Cheryl and the kids in P.V.

*I am not 100% sure, but I think I found the ship Ken was on. I wasn’t able to find anything under Matzoania, the closest I found was for the Mastonia, which was taken out of service in 2022, 49 years after being built in 1973. Looks like she outlasted all her sister-ships, according to this article from 2019.

March 18, Monday

Not a lot of action today, after school, Samie went over to Hot Toddy – it’s Sonya’s 13th b-day. We all went out for pizza and back to their boat with Sonya, Sue and Dan for cake. She is English, from England and I love listening to the English words and accent.

*Sonya and I hit it off right away. Dad and Tod had met, and, as cruisers do upon finding other kid boats, they threw us together to see how it went - I think it took us all of two minutes to know we were friends. She introduced me to Selena and No Doubt and now Bidi Bidi Bom Bom and Don’t Speak will always remind me of her. She LOVED the movie Beaches and we watched it a couple times while we were together. We swore to be friends forever and always and promised each other that one day we would be roommates. We have kept all those promises! We kept in touch via letters for years, then switched to good ‘ole MySpace. I flew to Georgia and drove across the country with her to Arizona where we gathered my things and drove separately out to Ventura. We lived here for a couple months with her mom, Sue - bless that woman for putting up with us two young 20-somethings sleeping on her couch for about three months! Ultimately, the move ended up being right at the time of the economic crash and a lot of what I’d had in mind for college and housing wasn’t working out and I decided to move back home where I had more security and familial support. But I’ll never forget the feeling we had of keeping that childhood promise to each other, the celebration and excitement of reuniting after 12 years and still loving each other to pieces and getting along just fine. Connection has been harder since - life gets busy and passes by - but we are still linked on social media. Seems like now would be an appropriate time to reach out and check in! If you see this: I love you, Sonya! Forever and Always!

March 19, Tuesday

We weighed a muddy anchor today and headed around and up the coast to Marina Mazatlan along with Oceania, and West Wind. We made the trip in 1.5 hours. I think about 8 other boats came in, also.
The radio reception wasn’t great and I missed Renegade’s position and weather – poop!
John sprayed down the top-sides, Samie sprayed down the contents of the “garage”, and I cleaned the head, vacuumed and went through the canned goods storage. A couple cans had rusted through and left a big mess. There are still several cans from San Diego – 1994.
We made a trip to Gigantes by bus. This end of Mazatlan is a big tourist city; Samie said it’s not like Mexico – but the States. Danielle and Peg both called. Samie had a “tea party” with Roxanne – dolls included. She said it was lots of fun!

 

March 20, Wednesday

Renegade has been gone two weeks today. I talked to Arne for just a bit, they have about 900 miles left to go. The winds have not been too great the last couple of days and they are just barely making 100 miles per day now. Not like the 150 they were making at first.
John waxed the outside of the boat and I lemon-oiled the inside. It warmed up to 82° today, but the nights still cool down to a chilly 62°.
Danielle called, she’s gonna fly into La Paz on the 27th – Chelle might fly out, too. So if the weather holds, we’ll leave here on Friday to cross over to the Baja.

 

March 21, Thursday

The day was spent getting ready to cross from here to La Paz. My nerves are on edge and my muscles tight – not looking forward to it, even though the weather looks good.
We went into town for an ice cream and small shop. Samie and I took a dinghy ride with Susan from Oceana to explore all of the channels that are part of this marina in the building. There are some really beautiful homes on up farther, a lot of big $.
At 5:30, we left the slip and tied up to one of the end docks so we can scoot on out early in the morning.
The sunset tonight was one of those that just kept getting better and better. It was worth 3 '“Kodak Moments” and a video.
Tonight in the eastern sky, I saw a new comet – don’t know the name, but it’s the brightest one since Halley’s Comet. Pretty cool, it looked like a bright star or partial moon behind a cloud.
Comet name: Hyakutake.

*Hyakutake was actually discovered a mere 51 days before by Hyakutake Yuji. It was noted as one of the brightest comets of the 20th century. I found this interesting video about how astrophotographer Peter Ceravolo captured 900+ detailed photos of the comet and strung them together in order to create a “video” of the comet as it traveled across the sky each night.
With this comet and
Hale-Bopp the year after, it seems we were in the perfect place for such rare and incredible sightings!

 

March 22, Friday

Happy B-day Delores

We left Marina Mazatlan at 6:00 with first light. Just outside the entrance a couple miles, we had the big dolphins swim under the bow for a while – good luck.
I called Delores to wish her a Happy B-day, she wasn’t there, so I left a message on the machine.
The weather looks good, almost no wind so far and should stay light and variable.
Somewhere around noon, I was able to capture on film several bat rays jumping, flipping and flying beside us in the peaceful ocean.
When we were 25 miles out, 5 hours, a panga came speeding towards us from the Baja side – 2 fisherman asking where the beach was. It would be freaky way out there, no land in sight and no instruments for direction.
We had a small sail hooked up, but broke free.
Talked to Steve P. on the ham. Turned the gen-set on, but after 5 minutes, it quit – it was overheating and shut down. Tried to run the back-up gas generator, but it wouldn’t run either. Then, just before sundown, we always turn off the engine and check the oil – tonight it was a gray color – not good  - and was up on the level. John thought we had water in the oil – BIG PROBLEM – but he decided if so, it’s minor so far and could be ‘cause he put in a different kind this time. So, we started her up again and checked the dip stick every 20 minutes for the remainder of the night and all is well. Lucked out on that one, but it made for a nerve-wracking night.
The winds were peaceful all night, a slight breeze keeping the sails full from the south.
Samie kept me company on watch tonight, we had a nice “girl talk” about my first kiss – long ago – my best friend when I was 9, and such as that. It was a nice evening. Earlier we had all gazed at the comet up near the Big Dipper. Tonight, it even had a visible tail following behind. At 41, I’ve bever seen a comet before, but at 9, Samie has! In the States, with all the city lights it’s probably not too visible.
The clear, brilliant nighttime skies out here are beautiful!
Samie and I both looked to the moon and said Hi to Janice, knowing she also can see the same moon.

*I remember this being a thing we’d say and do, maybe it was popular in the 90s, to look at the moon when you were missing the other person. It was always comforting across long distances with friends, to think they were doing the same while thinking of you, too.

March 23, Saturday

Around 5 am, the winds picked up out of the south and were blowing 15-20 knots with gusts to 25 right off our port beam. Not too bad, though the swell and chop made for a rolly ride and left the top-sides coated in salt. This lasted till 12:30 pm or so and then died down to nearly nothing.
We hooked a dorado and John let me pull him in – 48 inches of blue, green and yellow iridescent colors. We got 4 long strips of meat – 2 we gave to Hot Toddy later. We anchored in Los Muertos at 4 pm – a 34-hour trip total, and so much better than last year’s!!
John got the gen-set running by replacing “something so that the water would run in through the heat exchanger.”
After a quick inside clean up and showers, Hot Toddy had anchored, so we all headed to shore for pizza at Sourdough’s, and what a treat after a long passage.
Samie couldn’t sleep tonight and woke me up about 4 times, once the wind was blowing 20 knots, but I knew we were hooked good and I was fast asleep in 2 minutes.
Oh – around 9:30 the s/v Victoria hailed us on 16 and said they had picked up 3 fisherman 55 miles out in a panga that was just about ready to sink. They had run out of gas and had been out there for 2 days waiting for a boat to pass by. Anyway, they weren’t anchoring and wanted someone to pick the fisherman up in a dink and take them to shore – so John did. Those were very lucky guys to be alive.

*I don’t really have any recollection of the 3 fisherman - what a scary situation to be in! I wonder how they ended up so far out there. They really were incredibly lucky someone came across their path when they did! 😯

* Whooo! I can feel the movement of the boat in the beginning of that video!! I can guarantee Mom had herself braced and propped, filming there from the upside of the boat like that. Kudos for Mom’s 4-foot Dorado catch! I’m having a realization at this moment that the fish would have been nearly as big as myself at the time! There was another year when Mom did bring in a Dorado which was actually bigger than her. We let that one go, though - too much fish and we were still in the middle of filleting another! ‘Ole Captain Norm said it would have been a record for that year! Finally, I feel like I remember this specific trip in to Muertos - it seemed to drag on for the entire day! When you spot land after being far out at sea, it’s exciting and all, but then you still have hours upon hours of travel time while putzing along at 4 or 5 knots - a little faster than 4-5 miles per hour. It’s a good practice in patience.

 

March 24, Sunday

We left Los Muertos at 7:15 this morning. Getting the anchor up was a trick, it was wrapped around 2 rocks – lucky the water is so clear that John could see down and tell me which way to steer to unwrap it. The wind and weather was a strange one! It began very cloudy and dark, a cool 80° once at the entrance of the channel between the Baja and Ceravo Island the wind was light and southerly, at the north end it shifted to the north and the temp dropped to 70° and so the rest of the day went, one minute I was in a sweat shirt and the next, pulling it off – hot and cold.
Talked to Grace Nanamuk on VHF, they are in Marina Palmira and haul out tomorrow and fly from Cabo to Canada on Thursday.
I haven’t been able to get Renegade’s position for the last 3 days while we were underway, so I talked to Karen on Dessert First and got the position and weather. They have had light wind days lately, but are getting close. 19° -32 N and 146° - 54 W with 74°.
We went into The Dock for dinner tonight.
Right now it’s nearly 10 pm and the wind has been blowing for the last our at 10-15 out of SSE - 66° and cold!

The morning sun leaving Los Muertos.

 

March 25, Monday

John did the check-in routine while Sam and I did school. After the last 3 days of “vacation” it’s always a chore to get at it again.
In working on the gen set, John found the real problem – a completely plugged-up heat exchanger full of corrosion, so now it’s cleaned and it runs much cooler.
Nanamuk came over to a dorado dinner tonight. They had the boat hauled out today.
The ”La Paz Waltz” was really scoot’en all the boats around tonight – everyone was sail’en around on anchors in all different directions.

*The timing with which I keep picking back up with these journal postings cracks me up! I am regularly syncing up with whatever I’m typing or editing. Like the day I was editing the entry of my great grandfather’s death randomly being exactly the same day 28 years later, or when I was transcribing what my mom wrote about the double blue moon back in 1999 - while in the midst of the third blue moon to even happen since then… Or now, I’m finally getting to the spring of ‘96, which happens to be a sweet pocket of time when I was listening to Jimmy Buffett with fervency - like there was no other music to be heard - enough so that Mom called me Buffett for months to come. Please note his appropriately timed entry into our video soundtrack here with “Fins” playing in the background, from our “Songs You Know By Heart” album. He also was in the background of our Chacala sunset video. As I’m typing this, Jimmy Buffett passed away 11 days ago - just in time for the Labor Day Weekend show - iykyk. 💔 I have been more affected by his passing than I would have imagined - he really held a spot in my heart - through his music he understands in a way not many people do. He and the Coral Reefers take me right back to these most beautiful, warm, sparkling days of my youth every time I tune in. I can’t believe he’s gone, but I’m so grateful he was here. Sail on, Captain.

 

March 26, Tuesday

John spent the morning getting the cell phone working. It had been turned off by mistake – it worked, then it didn’t work – another phone call from shore and again ok – let’s hope it stays that way.
Danielle will be in tomorrow.
It took 60 gallons of fuel to fill the tanks.
Samie and Sonya (Hot Toddy) got together today.

 

March 26, Wednesday

John changed some of the hoses on the main engine today. We borrowed Dan and Sue’s little Toyota truck (just like our old one) to go pick Danielle up at the airport. She arrived at 4::30 pm, hit CCC on the way home. She brought Samie a dozen or so Orca things for Christmas and her birthday and a huge easter basket. She brought the movie Babe, about a pig, we watched it, cute.

 

March 28, Thursday

Arne and Janice Renegade checked in just before the 8.104 West Bound net at 9:00 am to say they were approaching Hilo, Hawaii!! 22 days after leaving La Cruz, Mexico, they made good time in their sail to Hilo. It was so exciting for us – I can only imagine how it felt for them!
We also talked to Ken (True Blue) out on the Matsonia between Hawaii and L.A. California for a bit today.
We all went into town today to show Danielle around and she bought some t-shirts and other goodies. We ate out for lunch.
Hot Toddy came over for a couple hours tonight. I love to listen to Sue with her English accent and expressions.

*Ah-ha, I was right, the name is Matsonia!

 

March 29, Friday

We left La Paz at 9:30 am, headed for Ensenada Grande, 0 wind to light – no sea life to watch. Made it in to the beautiful anchorage at 2:30 pm. I stayed aboard while John, Sam and Danielle went to check out the beach.

 

March 30, Saturday

Samie and I managed a day of school, then we all went to the beach. John took some under water pictures with the camera Danielle bought. I snorkled for awhile, Samie had a go at kayaking in a one-person kayak that someone else had on the beach – she did great at scooting it right along. Danielle proceeded to get her normal sunburn on the first day.

 

March 31, Sunday

Happy B-Day Jelly

We weighed anchor around 9:30 and headed out to “Seal Rock”, i.e. Los Islotes where we anchored for about 3 hours. We loaded in the dink and went up close in and around the seals. They are calving this time of year, there was every size from babies to HUGE grand-daddies. John swam with them and got some underwater photos. I swore there was no way I was getting in with ‘em, but my curiosity got the better of me, so once we went back to the boat and got my wet suit – I was in. Wow, totally amazing to be swimming with seals. They came right up to us with their huge eyes and long whiskers. One or two of them around was fine, but once the bigger mommas came in, I was out. Samie gave it a try but only lasted a few minutes. Danielle even went in for 30 minutes or so. There were millions of other beautiful fish swarming about, too. Spectacular day!
Once we left, we headed to Partida to anchor, but a NE wind was toot’en in, so we went to El Cardonel, but the anchor would not set, so it was back to Ensenada Grande.
What a day to remember.

*I remember this day, for sure, but I don’t remember getting in to swim! It’s not surprising that I didn’t last long - I was easily overwhelmed by so many things in the water - especially when the sea life was equally curious and would come right up to you! I was always nervous about something swimming up behind me. Being underwater reminds me of being in a fog - you can only see so far away, and then who knows what’s beyond that ocean haze! My imagination always got the best of me! I’m glad Mom got in the water - like she said, we didn’t expect that from her! You can see her with Dad in the 4th, 5th and 6th snorkeling photos, then the last three are of Danielle in the water with Dad. I’m glad Danielle had bought the waterproof disposables for this trip and were able to get these cool shots!

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February ‘96

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April ‘96